The Fine Line Between Cultural Exchange and Appropriation

The creative process for designers involves taking inspiration from external sources, which includes aesthetics from diverse cultures. When designers make a choice to take inspiration from a specific culture, most often, they are not aware that they become active participants in a cultural exchange. Cultural exchange is a beautiful thing. It shows curiosity, interest and appreciation for a community we are not part of. But when done carelessly, it could quickly become Cultural appropriation. On the other hand, cultural appropriation is exploitative; it reinforces harmful stereotypes and disrespects the community’s history and culture.

The conversation about cultural appropriation in Fashion and design is not new. Designers and brands have explored ways to collaborate with diverse communities in the past, but many of these attempts have resulted in further arms. More than ever, cultural appropriation, unfair labour, and inappropriate representation are at the forefront of arts, design and fashion debates. It is clear that actors within these industries struggle to engage ethically with communities, and I have a few suggestions to counter that:

"Connection is the energy that is created between people when they feel seen, heard and valued. When they can give and receive without judgement." — Brené Brown

CONNECTION AS PART OF THE CREATIVE PROCESS

Collecting Pinterest pictures to create a mood board, doing some Google research, and using another culture just for its aesthetic purposes do not qualify for cultural exchange. Indeed, cultural exchange cannot be done in a silo, alone, in front of a desk or a library. Instead, cultural exchange implies actively engaging with communities and cultures of our interest.

To appropriately involve in cultural exchange, designers must developpe meaningful connections with the communities from which they take inspiration; It means having formal and informal discussions with communities; to adopt a learner position.

This step is crucial, as it will allow designers to learn about the community's history, culture, symbolism, values and experience, allowing them to ensure an appropriate interpretation and representation of a community in the process of designing, promoting and commercializing their creations.

Understanding a community's culture is also critical because some items, arts, styles and clothing hold traditional or spiritual meanings that are not always known to people who part of that culture are not—grasping its history, spirituality, and stories in order to utilize them with respect.

A NEW APPROACH TO TRANSACTION

There is a colonial heritage within the art, design and fashion industries, the tendency to extract and exploit resources for financial gain without consideration for the exploited communities. Taking the time to connect with communities shows that we actually care and are genuinely interested. It means that we understand the responsibility that comes with

takings inspiration from a community we are not part of and making sure they can trust us with part of them.

It is also essential to consider how a collaboration will benefit and impact a community. Indeed, the principle of co-creation or collaboration is that everyone benefits from the outcome. Therefore, thinking in terms of impact and wealth redistribution essential.

Regarding the impact, one should consider these questions: how will this collaboration benefit the community? Does my narrative reinforce harmful stereotypes about a specific community? What is the ecosystem around the project? Who am I hiring? Who are in charge of the creative process, the production, promotions, shows? How do I centre or honour community in every step of a collection making?

Concerning wealth redistribution, the assumptions unfortunately, most often solely lie in monetary transactions. However, many cultures still value other forms of transaction above and beyond money. Understanding communities' specific approach to transactions is essential. That could go from reciprocity, community services, and other ways of giving back. All of which could be learned while engaging with communities.

Reciprocity is a form of cultural exchange in design and Fashion that is often overlooked. Two cultures learning from each other or sharing aspects of their culture that are similar or complement each other. The end product of such collaboration holds a deeper meaning. It is also the home for innovation. Isn’t it powerful?

REINVENTING NEW WAYS

Engaging in ethical co-creation with communities may mean creating new paths, reinventing new ways, instead of trying to mould into a system that created inequity in the first place.

Engaging in ethical co-creation meanS that fashion designers, for example, may have to resign from seasonal collections and adopt new ways of measuring success for their brands. It takes time to create meaningful connections, safety and trust with communities; therefore, learning and connecting cannot be forced within the traditional Fashion cycle.

Designers and brands would also have to find new ways to measure success. Traditionally, a brand's success is measured by revenue, profit and social recognition, meaning the prestige and status associated with the brand. But for designers and brands concerned with ethics, success would have to primarily derive from meaning, impact, and their ability to effectively challenge the norms and educate the masses on other ways to approach and consume Fashion.

"When you participate in another culture, you are the student. And as a student, you must be open-minded about the cultures you partake in and the people that belong to it". Alicia Kim,

CANCEL CULTURE

I couldn't conclude this text without addressing the issue of cancel culture. Unfortunately, I have found the cancel culture detrimental to the conversation about cultural appropriation. Since it is fear-based, it has the negative effect of discouraging curiosity and the willingness to engage in cultural exchange. Furthermore, it prevents people from being willing to experiment

and make mistakes along the way. Alicia Kim quotes highlights the student position of someone engaging in cultural exchange. Making mistakes is part of a learning process, and this is an area where intention does actually matter. Cancel culture is also detrimental to alternative and cultural Fashion owners. I have often seen potential consumers interested in buying local designs but won't do it because they are afraid of the cancel culture. They do not even know how to start a conversation and learn because the cancel culture allows no place for mistakes and the ability to learn from them.

There is a need for more education and nuances on this topic, and I am not saying this to remove the responsibility from the student. Indeed, reminding ourselves that we are learner is the appropriate mindset to adopt when facing the unknown but being open to learning about it. Furthermore, the awareness of one student's position amid another culture actually creates an environment for mutual respect. Openness, vulnerability, and understanding are the recipe for meaningful connection.

“Be yourself; the world will adjust.”

— Rachel-Diane Epoupa